Italian luxury fashion house Prada has come under fire for showcasing a sandal at Milan Fashion Week that closely resembled India’s traditional Kolhapuri chappal—without crediting its origins. The backlash has reignited debate around how global fashion brands engage with India’s rich, yet often overlooked, artisanal heritage.

Prada’s Controversial Step

In June, Prada presented a sandal with a toe-loop and braided design, strikingly similar to Kolhapuri footwear, a centuries-old handcrafted shoe originating from Kolhapur, Maharashtra. The brand failed to acknowledge the inspiration, drawing widespread criticism online.

Following the controversy, Prada issued a statement recognizing the design’s roots and expressing openness to dialogue with local Indian artisans. In an unusual move, a Prada team recently visited Kolhapur to meet sandal makers and held a meeting with the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce. The brand has hinted at possible future collaborations, although details remain unclear.

The Larger Pattern of Cultural Appropriation

Prada is not alone. Luxury brands have frequently been accused of borrowing South Asian designs without proper credit. Recent examples include:

• H&M and Reformation: Criticized for clothing that resembled traditional South Asian attire.
• Dior: Faced backlash for using mukaish embroidery in a coat, without acknowledging its Indian origins.

Fashion experts argue that while borrowing cultural elements isn’t inherently wrong, doing so without acknowledgment or benefit to the source community reflects a lack of respect.

“Giving due credit is part of design ethics. Ignoring it is cultural neglect,” says Shefalee Vasudev, Editor-in-Chief of Voice of Fashion.

India: Market or Manufacturing Hub?

Despite India’s long history in luxury craftsmanship, many brands still see the country more as a production base than a viable market. Though luxury malls and high-end boutiques have appeared in major cities, footfall remains low, says Arvind Singhal, chairman of consultancy firm Technopak.

“Names like Prada don’t resonate with the majority. Demand is limited to the ultra-rich,” he explains.

Delhi-based designer Anand Bhushan echoes the sentiment, adding that Indian artisans often work in difficult conditions, creating masterpieces with little recognition or financial return.

Missed Opportunity or Turning Point?

While the global luxury market looks to India for growth, a lack of local representation and cultural understanding continues to be a blind spot. Industry voices like Nonita Kalra, Editor-in-Chief of Tata CliQ Luxury, suggest this disconnect stems from the lack of diversity in leadership within Western fashion houses.

“The love for Indian craft is real—but it must be reflected in hiring, crediting, and collaboration,” she says.

For critics and artisans alike, the Prada controversy offers a potential wake-up call. Not just for global brands, but for India itself.

“We undervalue our own crafts. Until we take pride in and protect them, others will continue to exploit them,” says Laila Tyabji, chairperson of Dastkar, an NGO promoting Indian handicrafts.